Chris
08-24-2007, 01:07 PM
Convert from six to eight: preparing the suspension and braking system for a V-8 conversion. (HOW-TO)
Source: Mustang Monthly
Publication Date: 03/01/2006
Author: Smart, Jim
COPYRIGHT 2006 Primedia Enterprises, Inc.
It's been a long time since we've shown our readers how to convert a classic six-cylinder Mustang to a V-8, but the demand has existed for as long as our magazine has been in print. We've performed quite a few six-cylinder conversions in Mustang Monthly's 29-year history.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Carolyn Chenore has driven her '67 T-code Mustang hardtop daily for 26 years. It still sports an inline 200ci six-cylinder, three-speed manual transmission, four-wheel drum brakes, and more than its fair share of body filler, a result of 100,000 miles of Los Angeles freeway driving. Carolyn contacted us to see if we could show her how to make her classic Mustang more enjoyable to drive.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
When we first visited Carolyn, her Frost Turquoise hardtop looked like a typical Southern California driver, complete with bleached paint and black and yellow-letter California license plates from 1967. It had '57 Ford wheel covers; an electric fuel pump; a rebuilt front suspension; a remanufactured six-cylinder from Coast Engines, painted green instead of Ford Blue; and an interior restoration from the '80s.
So what do you do with a Mustang that has very little value on the auction block but is big on sentimental value? You transform it into a fun-to-drive, sporty classic that's safer and more reliable. We're going to help Carolyn meet that objective.
Last month, we looked to TransAm Racing to build us a budget 289 small-block V-8 for Carolyn's timeless Mustang commuter. TransAm Racing came up with an affordable, flat-tappet-cammed, four-barrel V-8 that is perfect for the daily drive, as well as the occasional weekend getaway.
This month, we're heading down to San Diego and JMC Motorsports to tackle our six-to-eight Mustang's suspension and braking system, with stress on the importance of a solid foundation when converting from a six to a V-8. Over the years, we've seen countless V-8 conversions with the original six-cylinder brakes and suspension system. It's downright foolish if you're interested in remaining safe and alive.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Smaller six-cylinder drum brakes, spindles, and suspension systems were never designed for the additional weight and power of a V-8. They weigh more, which puts additional stress on those dinky six-cylinder spindles, and the light-duty, 7 3/4-inch rear axle isn't designed for V-8 power either. Mix these two issues with springs that aren't up to the increased weight, and you have a Mustang that is unsafe. JMC Motorsports is going to show us how to build a Mustang V-8 foundation, via Mustangs Plus, that will deliver not only safety and reliability, but fun handling and a comfortable ride.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Our six-to-eight conversion begins in earnest when JMC's Jeff Audia pulls the tired, old six-cylinder Mustang onto the rack. A six-to-eight conversion should happen only when the desire for V-8 power outweighs the desire for a six. This is not an inexpensive project, especially if you pay someone to do it. Labor is likely the biggest financial blow.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Mustangs that were factory-equipped with the 170 or 200ci sixes had four-lug brake drums and wheels. Beginning in 1967, Ford replaced the dinky six-cylinder front spindles with the larger V-8 spindle and drag link.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff begins by removing the shock absorbers and coil springs. He uses a coil spring compressor from The Eastwood Company with extreme caution. There's enough pressure to maim or kill if the spring breaks free. Stay clear of the spring's expansion path at all times.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, Jeff removes the upper control-arm pivot-shaft bolts that tie the upper arm to the shock tower.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, it's a matter of rattling loose the rest of the front suspension. Jeff removes the lower control-arm pivot bolts and eccentrics, then the strut-rod bolts at the lower control arms. Brake hoses are disconnected at the body brake lines. The outer tie-rod ends and steering linkage are removed at this time. The goal is a completely bare frontend, free of suspension, steering, the braking components.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Because the lower control arms arrive from Mustangs Plus in raw galvanized steel, they should be primed and painted with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black primer and enamel. We thoroughly clean them with lacquer thinner to remove the only preservative, then lay down the primer and paint to prevent corrosion.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff dresses the new lower control-arm pivot bolts/eccentrics with lithium grease and installs each of the lower control arms. Eccentrics should be pointed at the 12 o'clock position prior to alignment. These eccentrics adjust front-end camber.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Grab-A-Trak upper control arms are available from Mustangs Plus two ways: assembled and unassembled. You can save a few bucks with the unassembled versions. Lubricate the shaft cups with WD-40, install the shaft in the arm, and screw the caps onto the shaft. Tighten them while making sure they are centered. It's a good idea to tack weld these caps to the arms for security once they are tight. A light tack weld is all it needs. The three-bolt ball joints are easy to install and service.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff installs the refurbished spindles that have been media-blasted and inspected for integrity. Examine bearing contact surfaces for wear patterns before committing to the spindles. It's a good idea to have the spindles magnafluxed to check for cracks before installation. We lucked out. Our '67 and V-8 spindles from the factory with four-lug six-cylinder brakes. Jeff secures the ball-joint castle nuts at top and bottom.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
We've seen cotter pins installed all kinds of ways. For maximum security, always ensure the cotter pin fills the hole, looping it like this across the ball stud. Do this with tie-rod ends, idler arms, and Pitman arms as well.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Coil springs have a urethane insulator between the spring and shock tower (right). Use zip ties to secure the insulator first.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Compress and install the spring like this, keeping yourself and others out of the spring's decompression path at all times. Make sure the spring seats properly at both ends.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, Jeff installs our Stainless Steel front disc brakes. Each of the bolts receives a dressing of Loctite 242 for fastener security.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Then the brake caliper bracket goes on each spindle, followed by the dust shield and bolts as shown.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff cleans the brake rotors with lacquer thinner and packs the wheel bearings with high-temp wheel-bearing grease. He doesn't believe in bearing packers because he wants confirmation there's grease throughout the bearings. Bearings are seated and the seals are installed.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff seats the rotor on the hub and gives it a couple of spins both ways to confirm bearing seating. Then he torques the nut to 14 lb-ft and secures the installation with a cotter pin. Jeff has his own bearing dust-cap-installation tool, a 2-inch exhaust pipe sized to fit the cup.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Brake calipers are next. Each is secured with two bolts, which are coated wit Loctite for safety.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Once the calipers are in place, pad installation is a snap. Slip them into the calipers and install the retainer clips. The brake hose gets a copper expansion washer between the hose and caliper for leak resistance.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Whenever installing new tie-rod ends, take Jeff's approach to simplicity. Match the old and the new, and adjust the new to the old. This makes it easier to drive to an alignment shop.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
When installing urethane sway bar bushings, wrap the bar with Teflon tape at the bushings instead of using silicone lubricant. This keeps things neat and bushings quiet.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff continues with the sway bar installation, installing the end links and securing the bar to the chassis. Urethane bushings coupled with a thicker bar will improve handling dramatically. There are a couple schools of thought on using urethane bushings at the strut rods. Older strut rods become brittle and weakened wit use. When using old strut rods, we suggest using rubber bushings. With new strut rods, it's a toss of the coin between urethane and rubber.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
text and photos by Jim Smart
RELATED ARTICLE: PARTS THAT PERFORM
We've always counted on Mustangs Plus for genuine Grab-A-Trak suspension components. Mustangs Plus uses what it sells with unyielding confidence. We've opted for affordable, streetable Grab-A-Trak components for our six-to-eight conversion, along with a Stainless Steel Brakes front disc-brake conversion kit for improved stopping power.
This sets the stage for next month, when we'll show how to convert the engine and driveline to efficient V-8 power. We stress efficient because the 289 small-block and a T5 five-speed will yield better fuel economy on the open road than the 3.03 three-speed manual box and 3.20:1 gears. The T5 will offer Carolyn the best of both worlds: performance when she's getting started and economy when she's in Overdrive on the freeway. We're also fitting Carolyn's Mustang with a vintage, '70-model, 22-gallon fuel tank, which will give her incredible range on the order of 400 miles. Not bad for a classic.
When we started planning Carolyn's six-to-eight conversion, it seemed simple in scope, but it wasn't. Dealing with the pesky details, there is a lot to remember because a V-8 Mustang is decidedly different than its six-cylinder counterpart. The V-8 uses different fuel lines, accessory package, engine mounts, engine harness, exhaust system, and more.
Our front suspension and brake effort can easily be adapted to a six-cylinder Mustang. All regularly-driven six-cylinder Mustangs should have five-lug V-8 brakes and spindles. At the very least, they should have 8-inch, removable carrier rearends with larger drum brakes.
SOURCES
The Eastwood Company
Dept. MM
263 Shoemaker Rd.
Pottstown, PA 19464
800/343-9353
www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com/)
JMC Motorsports
Dept. MM
2277 National Ave.
San Diego, CA 92113
866/342-3571
619/230-8866
www.jmcmotorsports.com (http://www.jmcmotorsports.com/)
Mustangs Plus
Dept. MM
2353 N. Wilson Way
Stockton, CA 95205
800/999-4289
www.mustangsplus.com (http://www.mustangsplus.com/)
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Dept. MM
10411 Airport Rd. SE
Everett, WA 98204
800/298-9541
www.ring-pinion.com (http://www.ring-pinion.com/)
Scott Drake Mustang Parts
Dept. MM
130 Cassia Way
Henderson, NV 89014
800/999-0289
702/853-2060
www.scottdrake.net (http://www.scottdrake.net/)
See JMC Motorsports for genuine
Scott Drake parts.
Stainless Steel Brakes Corp.
Dept. MM
11470 Main St.
Clarence, NY 14031
800/448-7722
www.ssbrakes.com (http://www.ssbrakes.com/)
TransAm Racing
Dept. MM
13307 S. Manhattan Pl.
Gardena, CA 90249
310/323-5417
COPYRIGHT 2006 Primedia Enterprises, Inc.
Source: Mustang Monthly
Publication Date: 03/01/2006
Author: Smart, Jim
COPYRIGHT 2006 Primedia Enterprises, Inc.
It's been a long time since we've shown our readers how to convert a classic six-cylinder Mustang to a V-8, but the demand has existed for as long as our magazine has been in print. We've performed quite a few six-cylinder conversions in Mustang Monthly's 29-year history.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Carolyn Chenore has driven her '67 T-code Mustang hardtop daily for 26 years. It still sports an inline 200ci six-cylinder, three-speed manual transmission, four-wheel drum brakes, and more than its fair share of body filler, a result of 100,000 miles of Los Angeles freeway driving. Carolyn contacted us to see if we could show her how to make her classic Mustang more enjoyable to drive.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
When we first visited Carolyn, her Frost Turquoise hardtop looked like a typical Southern California driver, complete with bleached paint and black and yellow-letter California license plates from 1967. It had '57 Ford wheel covers; an electric fuel pump; a rebuilt front suspension; a remanufactured six-cylinder from Coast Engines, painted green instead of Ford Blue; and an interior restoration from the '80s.
So what do you do with a Mustang that has very little value on the auction block but is big on sentimental value? You transform it into a fun-to-drive, sporty classic that's safer and more reliable. We're going to help Carolyn meet that objective.
Last month, we looked to TransAm Racing to build us a budget 289 small-block V-8 for Carolyn's timeless Mustang commuter. TransAm Racing came up with an affordable, flat-tappet-cammed, four-barrel V-8 that is perfect for the daily drive, as well as the occasional weekend getaway.
This month, we're heading down to San Diego and JMC Motorsports to tackle our six-to-eight Mustang's suspension and braking system, with stress on the importance of a solid foundation when converting from a six to a V-8. Over the years, we've seen countless V-8 conversions with the original six-cylinder brakes and suspension system. It's downright foolish if you're interested in remaining safe and alive.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Smaller six-cylinder drum brakes, spindles, and suspension systems were never designed for the additional weight and power of a V-8. They weigh more, which puts additional stress on those dinky six-cylinder spindles, and the light-duty, 7 3/4-inch rear axle isn't designed for V-8 power either. Mix these two issues with springs that aren't up to the increased weight, and you have a Mustang that is unsafe. JMC Motorsports is going to show us how to build a Mustang V-8 foundation, via Mustangs Plus, that will deliver not only safety and reliability, but fun handling and a comfortable ride.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Our six-to-eight conversion begins in earnest when JMC's Jeff Audia pulls the tired, old six-cylinder Mustang onto the rack. A six-to-eight conversion should happen only when the desire for V-8 power outweighs the desire for a six. This is not an inexpensive project, especially if you pay someone to do it. Labor is likely the biggest financial blow.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Mustangs that were factory-equipped with the 170 or 200ci sixes had four-lug brake drums and wheels. Beginning in 1967, Ford replaced the dinky six-cylinder front spindles with the larger V-8 spindle and drag link.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff begins by removing the shock absorbers and coil springs. He uses a coil spring compressor from The Eastwood Company with extreme caution. There's enough pressure to maim or kill if the spring breaks free. Stay clear of the spring's expansion path at all times.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, Jeff removes the upper control-arm pivot-shaft bolts that tie the upper arm to the shock tower.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, it's a matter of rattling loose the rest of the front suspension. Jeff removes the lower control-arm pivot bolts and eccentrics, then the strut-rod bolts at the lower control arms. Brake hoses are disconnected at the body brake lines. The outer tie-rod ends and steering linkage are removed at this time. The goal is a completely bare frontend, free of suspension, steering, the braking components.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Because the lower control arms arrive from Mustangs Plus in raw galvanized steel, they should be primed and painted with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black primer and enamel. We thoroughly clean them with lacquer thinner to remove the only preservative, then lay down the primer and paint to prevent corrosion.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff dresses the new lower control-arm pivot bolts/eccentrics with lithium grease and installs each of the lower control arms. Eccentrics should be pointed at the 12 o'clock position prior to alignment. These eccentrics adjust front-end camber.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Grab-A-Trak upper control arms are available from Mustangs Plus two ways: assembled and unassembled. You can save a few bucks with the unassembled versions. Lubricate the shaft cups with WD-40, install the shaft in the arm, and screw the caps onto the shaft. Tighten them while making sure they are centered. It's a good idea to tack weld these caps to the arms for security once they are tight. A light tack weld is all it needs. The three-bolt ball joints are easy to install and service.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff installs the refurbished spindles that have been media-blasted and inspected for integrity. Examine bearing contact surfaces for wear patterns before committing to the spindles. It's a good idea to have the spindles magnafluxed to check for cracks before installation. We lucked out. Our '67 and V-8 spindles from the factory with four-lug six-cylinder brakes. Jeff secures the ball-joint castle nuts at top and bottom.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
We've seen cotter pins installed all kinds of ways. For maximum security, always ensure the cotter pin fills the hole, looping it like this across the ball stud. Do this with tie-rod ends, idler arms, and Pitman arms as well.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Coil springs have a urethane insulator between the spring and shock tower (right). Use zip ties to secure the insulator first.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Compress and install the spring like this, keeping yourself and others out of the spring's decompression path at all times. Make sure the spring seats properly at both ends.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Next, Jeff installs our Stainless Steel front disc brakes. Each of the bolts receives a dressing of Loctite 242 for fastener security.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Then the brake caliper bracket goes on each spindle, followed by the dust shield and bolts as shown.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff cleans the brake rotors with lacquer thinner and packs the wheel bearings with high-temp wheel-bearing grease. He doesn't believe in bearing packers because he wants confirmation there's grease throughout the bearings. Bearings are seated and the seals are installed.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff seats the rotor on the hub and gives it a couple of spins both ways to confirm bearing seating. Then he torques the nut to 14 lb-ft and secures the installation with a cotter pin. Jeff has his own bearing dust-cap-installation tool, a 2-inch exhaust pipe sized to fit the cup.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Brake calipers are next. Each is secured with two bolts, which are coated wit Loctite for safety.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Once the calipers are in place, pad installation is a snap. Slip them into the calipers and install the retainer clips. The brake hose gets a copper expansion washer between the hose and caliper for leak resistance.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Whenever installing new tie-rod ends, take Jeff's approach to simplicity. Match the old and the new, and adjust the new to the old. This makes it easier to drive to an alignment shop.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
When installing urethane sway bar bushings, wrap the bar with Teflon tape at the bushings instead of using silicone lubricant. This keeps things neat and bushings quiet.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Jeff continues with the sway bar installation, installing the end links and securing the bar to the chassis. Urethane bushings coupled with a thicker bar will improve handling dramatically. There are a couple schools of thought on using urethane bushings at the strut rods. Older strut rods become brittle and weakened wit use. When using old strut rods, we suggest using rubber bushings. With new strut rods, it's a toss of the coin between urethane and rubber.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
text and photos by Jim Smart
RELATED ARTICLE: PARTS THAT PERFORM
We've always counted on Mustangs Plus for genuine Grab-A-Trak suspension components. Mustangs Plus uses what it sells with unyielding confidence. We've opted for affordable, streetable Grab-A-Trak components for our six-to-eight conversion, along with a Stainless Steel Brakes front disc-brake conversion kit for improved stopping power.
This sets the stage for next month, when we'll show how to convert the engine and driveline to efficient V-8 power. We stress efficient because the 289 small-block and a T5 five-speed will yield better fuel economy on the open road than the 3.03 three-speed manual box and 3.20:1 gears. The T5 will offer Carolyn the best of both worlds: performance when she's getting started and economy when she's in Overdrive on the freeway. We're also fitting Carolyn's Mustang with a vintage, '70-model, 22-gallon fuel tank, which will give her incredible range on the order of 400 miles. Not bad for a classic.
When we started planning Carolyn's six-to-eight conversion, it seemed simple in scope, but it wasn't. Dealing with the pesky details, there is a lot to remember because a V-8 Mustang is decidedly different than its six-cylinder counterpart. The V-8 uses different fuel lines, accessory package, engine mounts, engine harness, exhaust system, and more.
Our front suspension and brake effort can easily be adapted to a six-cylinder Mustang. All regularly-driven six-cylinder Mustangs should have five-lug V-8 brakes and spindles. At the very least, they should have 8-inch, removable carrier rearends with larger drum brakes.
SOURCES
The Eastwood Company
Dept. MM
263 Shoemaker Rd.
Pottstown, PA 19464
800/343-9353
www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com/)
JMC Motorsports
Dept. MM
2277 National Ave.
San Diego, CA 92113
866/342-3571
619/230-8866
www.jmcmotorsports.com (http://www.jmcmotorsports.com/)
Mustangs Plus
Dept. MM
2353 N. Wilson Way
Stockton, CA 95205
800/999-4289
www.mustangsplus.com (http://www.mustangsplus.com/)
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Dept. MM
10411 Airport Rd. SE
Everett, WA 98204
800/298-9541
www.ring-pinion.com (http://www.ring-pinion.com/)
Scott Drake Mustang Parts
Dept. MM
130 Cassia Way
Henderson, NV 89014
800/999-0289
702/853-2060
www.scottdrake.net (http://www.scottdrake.net/)
See JMC Motorsports for genuine
Scott Drake parts.
Stainless Steel Brakes Corp.
Dept. MM
11470 Main St.
Clarence, NY 14031
800/448-7722
www.ssbrakes.com (http://www.ssbrakes.com/)
TransAm Racing
Dept. MM
13307 S. Manhattan Pl.
Gardena, CA 90249
310/323-5417
COPYRIGHT 2006 Primedia Enterprises, Inc.